Friday 28 October 2011

Time Travelling. Madrid - 27-31 October 2011



If you could travel through time but only go either to the past or the future, which would you choose?


The alarm came on at three fifteen in the morning - well, I say morning, but the day was still wrapped in black as I dragged my sleep deprived body, closely followed by my still snoozing brain, into the bathroom. Autopilot got us both showered and dressed and, thanks to a bit of forward planning, we jumped into the already luggage-laden car and pointed it at the airport. Today's destination - Madrid, to join our favourite Spaniards for a nice long weekend.



We’d not seen the family since the summer, and although only a couple of months had past we had really missed them all. The flight went by without incident and had taken off bang on time. Easyjet get a fair bit of stick generally, some warranted, but in the main they’ve been nothing but good news for us. There’s definitely also a degree of snobbery about flying budget airlines – or rather not. Well, if they can get me and mine to most major European destinations for under seventy quid return you won’t hear me bemoaning the lack of a reserved seat or in-flight movie.

An incident free two hours and ten minutes later we touched down at Madrid Barajas Airport. The weather forecast had been ok; the best that could have been said of it was that it was going to be dry. We’d kept our fingers crossed that it was going to stay that way as we had planned an overnight trip to Cuenca and the E­­nchanted City, about an hour and a half West of the capital. Lynda and I had recently read the excellent Spanish Civil War novel ‘Winter in Madrid’ by CJ Sansom, in which Cuenca had featured quite a bit. We had mentioned it to Ana in the summer and she’d arranged the trip for us.

So when we stepped off the plane into the pouring rain our spirits were literally dampened. Passing for the first time through the electronic passport scanner – the first time we’ve been through one that’s actually worked I mean – we grabbed our bags from the carousel and having summoned Frank from his desk a few minutes earlier, were whisked away back to the house.


After the usual routine of installing ourselves in our temporary home and a welcome lunch we decided that as the rain had let off to take a hike to the town centre, and in particular the main shopping street. Not that we wanted any shopping, the street also happens to be home of several very nice bars, which came in very handy to shelter in when the heavens re-opened. Ever the considerate chap, Frank phoned to say he was leaving work and would pick us up rather than see us drowned. This had the added advantage of allowing us to pick the girls up from school with him, which made for a wonderful reunion. Back home and waiting when we arrived were Pablo and Citrus. Which one was more pleased to see us I’m not sure but both gave us a lovely welcome.
That evening was a blur of frantically ripped off wrapping paper, chinking of glasses, chattering over dinner and some pretty decent cuddles.





Frank had explained on the drive back from the airport that the weather forecast for the Cuenca area was very dodgy and as such a two-day trip wasn’t a great idea. An alternative had been planned however and so on Friday morning, having first got the kids to school, we grown-ups made our way to the mountains north of the city for a driving tour that was to take in history, culture, scenery and some pretty fine eating too.

Our first stop was the very old and pretty chilly town of Buitrago del Lazoya. Try saying that after four cervezas!! Not pretty but certainly chocker block with history BdL’ as it shall henceforth be known provided an excellent breakfast stop and the sizzlingly hot coffee and delicious pan con tomate fitted the bill perfectly.



After a quick look around the town’s church and medaeval walls we quit BdL and made our way further into the mountains to what turned out to be a spectacular hidden gem.













































The Ermita de San Frutas – silly name but amazing place – is an abbey built on the site of a Hermitage not too far from the town of Sepulveda. The drive there from BdL had already taken us through beautiful scenery but Frank and Ana, who had visited the same place over ten years previously, had promised even more delightful views from the Hermitage. We were not disappointed. EdSF as I like to think of it, is completely hidden from the main road and is approached by a half-mile walk from the car park, along which you’re taken past a sheer drop to a canyon at the bottom of which nestles a river, stuffed full of huge fish poking their heads rather smugly through its surface. The first treat is a view down to a horseshoe in the river where it makes a hairpin turn, doubling back on itself before disappearing into the distance. By now the sun had well and truly got its hat on and had warmed the morning, and us, considerably. As we stood marvelling at and photographing the incredible vista we had a further treated in the shape of a group of eagles that flew very low right over our heads. Although framed beautifully in our binoculars our camera lenses were not really up to the job of capturing a decent image of these amazing creatures, but despite that we felt so pleased and indeed privileged at being able to spend a few minutes watching these beautiful birds circling overhead.

The walk down to the Hermitage is considerably easier then the haul back up to the car park, especially as the sun was now at its highest, but the warm feeling we left with had a lot more to do with the experience of having been in such a wonderful place than by the weather.


Next stop was Pedraza. All that walking had left us very thirsty and quite peckish too so we decided that the sightseeing would wait until we’d sorted out the catering first. However, this beautifully preserved old town is as sight-seeing treasure trove from the moment you enter it, and even before we’d got to the car park we’d ‘ooh’d’ and ‘aah’d’ several times. We stuck to our guns though and carried out a bit of a recce of the menus displayed outside the traditional bars and restaurants before deciding on the splendid "Bar Restaurante Reberte". We opted for one of the set 'Menu del Dia' and we weren't disappointed, especially with the highlight Cochinillo Asado, or roast Suckling Pig. Brilliant food, brilliant service and brilliant value.














































We fell out of the restaurant with very full tummies and that all-over glow of satisfaction that can only be had after an enormous feed in good company, washed down with some decent wine, and at an unbelievably low price.


Pedraza is really well worth a detour if you’re in the vicinity. It is beautifully kept and its ancient streets snake out from the wonderful galleried square that clearly was and probably still is the heart of the town. Pedraza also benefits from a picture book castle. I’m afraid I’ve no idea what the castle does or did because it was shut but it certainly makes for some very nice photos. It was whilst walking round this lovely town that I asked Frank, Ana and Lynda if they could travel through time but only in one direction, would it be to the past or to the future? This caused much furrowing of brows as there were many benfits to both. I'd go backwards I said, as too did Lynda. Frank opted for going to the future and doing something noble for all mankind like bringing back the cure to something terrible. A little less noble was my thought that I'd only go forward till the next Euromillions draw and come back with the winning numbers. I think Ana just thought I was stupid and couldn't are less which way she went as long as it ended up at home.





























Time was however inevitably moving on, but we’d managed already to pack so much into the day. There was room however for one more stop before we turned south for Madrid, and once again we weren’t disappointed. After a glorious winding drive through pine forests carpeted with fallen golden leaves and lit by the low autumn sun, we arrived at Rascafria, and the Hotel Santa Maria del El Paular.







Not surprisingly given its strong Catholic tradition, just about every building we’ve ever visited in Spain was, is, or is scheduled to become some kind of religious establishment. This hotel, a former monastery, was no different. Now a 5* pile in the Sheraton empire it made for a splendid coffee and loo stop before making our way back home.



Saturday once again confounded the meteorologists by serving up another sun-kissed morning. The bad weather had been scooped up and given a hefty shove westwards, which whilst bad news for the citizens of Valencia, was great stuff for us in the capital. And indeed it was there we headed this morning having first dropped Sofi, Carla and Andy at their various painting, dancing, boxing, bricklaying, etc classes. We parked up just off Gran Via and slowly meandered down past and through the many shops and cafes on the way through to Chueca. Bored of waiting
for Ana and Lynda outside just about every shoe-shop in the district, Frank, Pablo and I drifted into a newly refurbished indoor market and marvelled at the produce stalls on the ground floor and then the wonderful bars on the first floor. Sadly I don’t know the name of this splendid place so if you want to know what it’s called you’ll have to go there and do the walk yourselves!!

Sunday was once again such a beautiful day that we decided the wraps would come off the BBQ. The morning saw some furious activity in and around the kitchen in preparation for the afternoon’s feast. Numerous BBQ’d sausages and pieces of meat, dished up with salads, grilled peppers and the freshest bread ever followed. Wine and beer of course featured strongly, and fortunately our splendid hosts keep a fine, both in terms of quantity and quality, of both. This raised the time travel question again and it must be said that Pablo, like his father like son I suppose, also opted for a choice based on the good of mankind. His involved travelling back in time and doing for one or two famous "ne'r do wells" from history. I was still fixated however on winning the lottery.



After such a feed we only had two options really; a big old snooze or far healthier, a nice long walk. See, you were wrong weren’t you? You thought we all scrapped for the sofas I bet. Well, we actually went for the walk option which took in some of the recently established parks near the house, and some serious snooping at some of the posh houses on the route back to Frank and Ana’s posh house.



We woke the next day with mixed feelings; we were looking forward to a day with the kids as Frank & Ana were at work, but we were disappointed that we were flying home that evening. One of the great (of many) things about the kids is that they are so easy to entertain and this morning was a perfect example of that. Lynda and I had promised Sofi a trip to the local designer mall to get her a present of something nice to wear. This resulted in our very own conga line to the shops, a whirl round the girly outlets, then back to the town centre before walking home again. Almost four hours walking but lots of laughing and not a single complaint, and all fuelled by a couple of ice creams and a bag of Halloween sweeties!! What splendid chaps they are, and how we miss them and their parents now we’re home.

Easyjet were once again faultless in jetting back home on time, Luton Airport was its usual crappy self - a place that seems to be run for its own benefit and profit; screwing its passengers out of every last penny it can at every opportunity whilst making it as inconvenient as possible for those travelling near or through it. That’s my perception, and that of several of my friends and family that are forced by convenience to endure its complete contempt of those that actually keep it open. Despite that, our overwhelming feeling was a very warm one, the same as every visit to the family out there. Once again they fed, watered and bedded us down wonderfully. They showed us new sights and gave us new experiences and laughed a good deal with us. They even arranged for the sun to shine. All in all, most holiday boxes were well and truly ticked. The wine got home safe and sound too - thanks Frank!!


And the time travel question? I guess having had such a good time and enjoyed so much during our trip I can only conclude the best time to be anywhere is right now. Stop moaning about it, enjoy it, live it. Think less, feel more because it can all disappear so very quickly and easily.