8th - 15th August 2009 - Norfolk and Good

This year, May and June had some wonderfully sunny days, even remarkably at the weekends. The smells and sounds of barbecues drifting over garden hedges and fences, the very English drone of lawnmowers, girls going about their business in strappy tops that displayed their obvious reckless over exposure to the till then rare sunshine and the Met Office predicting a ‘Scorcher’ of a summer, all gave us hope that we weren’t, as in the last few years, going to spend the holiday season watching it from behind rain-lashed windows. However that was all very short-lived as soon the climate reverted to type and down came the rain.

Like millions of other Brits, and of course a pretty hefty number of foreign visitors, we were looking forward to a UK-based holiday in August, and like all those other Brits and foreign visitors we had our fingers firmly crossed for if not beautiful sunshine, then at least a week where it didn’t rain every day. Six foreigners in particular shared that sentiment, and were looking forward to a few weeks escape from the boiling cauldron that is Madrid in the summer for the cooler UK climate. Frank, Ana, Pablo, Sofi, Andrea and Carla were due to arrive at the end of July for their annual summer family visit, and we had a week’s holiday arranged with them and Mum in Sheringham (thanks Scotty) in mid-August. They were going to get plenty of ‘cool’ we thought. In the run-up to their arrival we’d seen enough rain to warrant gathering two of each species of animal, sticking them on one of Cunard’s finest and heading off to the Caribbean until it stopped pouring, or the on-board bar ran out.

They arrived and still it rained. We were a week away from Sheringham and though the rain wasn’t going to spoil our holiday, Lynda and I were hastily considering our wet-weather options.

In the event we needn’t have worried. We collected our hire car on the Saturday morning in bright sunshine, loaded it and our own car with people, luggage and a vast picnic and set off for our first stop – collect the kids. They’d spent the last week at a Hogwarts look-alike private school in Suffolk enjoying (immensely as it turned out) an activity holiday with a herd of other foreign kids. We chucked them and their dirty laundry into the cars and in no time at all the grown-ups were stretched out on picnic blankets on the sun-washed Southwold beach nursing their over-stuffed stomachs while the girls and Pablo dug huge pointless holes and made sand castles. The holiday had started very well.

When finally we were able to move again we packed up, had a short walk around the town and then motored on to Sheringham. Thanks to our great friend Scotty we were lucky enough to have a wonderfully large, well equipped and perfectly located house to stay in for the week, which was soon full of our holiday ‘stuff’. As it was a beautiful evening, and more to the point as we’d been promising the kids fish & chips, we walked down to the sea only to find we’d arrived in the middle of the Sheringham Festival. The streets near the front were full of happy holiday makers dancing to the live bands, and once we’d had our much anticipated seaside feast and ice cream we soon joined in too – much to Sofi’s embarrassment. It was here that Carla came out with one of the holiday’s more memorable quotes. She and Sofi were bickering as only sisters can. Sofi told her “you’re stupid and everyone knows it”. “No” answered Carla firmly, “not everyone knows it”. That night we all slept very well indeed.

Mmmm.....chips....

We’d already decided that we’d take this break at a very leisurely pace and try to make the most of what was on our doorstep. Originally a fishing village made popular following its discovery by white collar Londoners as a quaint holiday destination, Sheringham is a lovely old seaside town, set in some fantastic countryside and circled by many wonderful places to visit with lots to see and do. It has an old world feel to it, mainly due to its architecture and to its traditional shops, pubs and seafront. It’s well served for facilities, including a range of restaurants, local supermarkets and even an appropriate sprinkling of charity shops – an essential requirement for the kids and their holiday cash. It’s also home to the North Norfolk Railway Poppy Line, a beautiful preserved and well run salute to the pre-Beeching age of rail travel between Sheringham and Holt only about six miles away, stopping at Weybourne en-route. A great source of info on the town, its amenities and its history can be found at www.experiencesheringham.com

Sunday; the festival still in full flow and the sun once again shining we decided to stay in town. After the manic rush for breakfast and the bathroom we ambled into down the High Street and on to the seafront. Carla and Andi had stopped on the way to buy buckets and spades and were determined to create enormous and elaborate sand castles. Their disappointment was not hidden in the slightest then when we got to the beach to find it made up of very large stones. Lynda, ever one to seek a solution for all eventualities, asked the nearby kiosk owner where in the locality we could find a sandy beach. “Right here” said the cheery chap. “Give it half an hour for the tide to go out”. So, slightly embarrassed by our lack of nautical knowings, we spent a couple of hours drooling over the large and splendid collection of classic cars on display in the town before nipping back down to the beach, seeing off yet another large picnic and spending the rest of the day burying Andi in a mermaid-shaped hole. Mum then came out with memorable quote of the holiday number two. Messing about with a towel, Pablo wrapped it turban-like around Mum’s head, which the wind promptly whipped off and dropped over her face. “Oh no” said a startled Mum, “I can’t see my eyes”. That evening Frank, Lynda, Pablo, Mum and me walked to the nearby Leisure centre to join the modest crowd watching the lovely firework display that marked the end of the festival.

Enjoying Sheringham on Sunday

Pablo picks his favourite 'classic'

Forever a soft spot for the MX-5

Andi mermaid

Grand Designs

Super Nan

Lynda can't believe the sunshine

Sofi loving the camera

Finished for the day, Carla & Andi's own 'scorched earth' policy

Hard work these sandcastles

It's party time ~ Samba in Sheringham

By Monday morning we’d got breakfast and bathing off to military precision, which enabled us to present ourselves relatively early at the ticket office of the North Norfolk Railway. www.nnrailway.co.uk. The station is a real look back at a long-gone age of rail travel. It’s a romantic view of railways which for most commuters is unrecognisable today. The station looks as it’s straight out of ‘Brief Encounter’ – not the space ship film, the romantic one with Trevor and Celia. As I watched the train standing in the platform with its magnificent almost animal-like engine idling, ready to haul us away from Sheringham, I have to confess that for the briefest of moments I was a young boy again, excited at the prospect of riding in the corridored carriage with its separate compartments, just like those in ‘From Russia with Love’. How many spies and furtive lovers had ridden the train before us? How many dapper Belgian detectives had twirled their waxed moustaches before revealing who did it in the very train we were about to board? Probably none to be honest, but it was fun to speculate.

At Sheringham Station

Sofi travels light

A monster of steam, and a train in the background

Only first class will do

"What happens if I press this then?"

Holt ~ the end of the line, and our first stop

The route takes you a few miles up the coast to the first stop at Weybourne before swinging inland to Holt, the final destination. We decided to go all the way and then call in at Weybourne on the return leg of the trip. Holt station is about a mile out of the lovely Georgian town itself so we walked to the nearest bus stop (we dallied a bit too long in the café / gift shop to get on the complimentary bus service between the station and town centre) and caught a ride into town. Holt is a very charming place to visit, and is almost a museum of Georgian architecture having been destroyed by fire and then rebuilt in the early eighteenth century. Have a look at www.tournorfolk.co.uk/holt.html for more info and great pictures. We had a good wander around, including a visit to the splendid food hall of ‘Bakers & Larners of Holt’ www.bakersandlarners.co.uk before sheltering from the first rain of the break in a very pleasant fish & chip restaurant. Yes, I know, fish & chips again. Well, we were on holiday…..and it was raining.

On the Buses

We got to Weybourne on the trip back a little later than planned so contented ourselves with enjoying the station itself. There’s plenty to occupy an hour – the shop, waiting room, the signal box and the very enjoyable and nostalgic display of all the TV shows and films that have used the line and station as locations, including Dad’s Army and other Perry & Croft classic comedies. Back on the train and back to Sheringham to finish off what had been a wonderful day with a well-earned ice cream. Ah, nostalgia is definitely not what it used to be.

Weybourne. I'm sure Sofi's got more luggage

Ana relaxing on the homeward leg of the trip

A very odd train spotter

This staying local lark was working out really well and so on Tuesday we called in at Sheringham Park, once again you’ll not be surprised to learn, armed with a pretty devastating picnic put together by Ana and Lynda from a visit the local butcher cum Deli that morning. Of all the wonderful places we visited and things we did during this holiday Sheringham Park was the biggest surprise www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-sheringhampark It’s really, really lovely. The National Trust has done a fantastic job of maintaining a network of walks through this erstwhile country squire’s pile. There’s a temple in the grounds, a rather nice main house and our favourite bit, an observation tower with views over the coastline that take in the railway line and a lovely windmill. We inadvertently timed our climb up there (and it is a bit of a climb) to coincide with a steam train rolling by. The scene was perfect; the coastline, the train and windmill behind them both, and the sea beyond them all – fantastic. All this for only £4 per car.

Sheringham Park's collection of rare Spanish monkeys

The house itself

On the observation platform

....and the incredible view

Frank looking for all the world as if he was born to it

Mmm...where shall I put the Orangery?

Pablo & Andi wearing off the picnic

After our lunch and a great deal of laughter sat at a picnic table in the grounds we climbed back into the cars and decided to make our way a bit further along the coast to Holkham where we’d heard there’s a pretty impressive beach. We weren’t disappointed; ‘impressive’ is definitely the right word. We’d arrived around four thirty and the tide was about its furthest distance out, revealing a vast and beautiful expanse of sand and dunes. The walk to the sea itself must have been at least half a mile but it was well worth it. We gathered shells, went for a paddle – until we saw the jelly fish – took photos, chatted and laughed. It’s a truly wonderful spot, breathtaking in its scale and beauty. What we didn’t realise is that it also boasts a naturist beach – that is the right word isn’t it – nudies, not animal lovers, although I’m sure the two aren’t mutually exclusive - I think I’ll stop right there actually. We enjoyed a lovely couple of hours there before we set off for home.

On the way we passed the ruins of Binham Priory, or Abbey depending on who you talk to. Ruins are a magnet to Ana – probably what first attracted to her Frank – so it was no surprise when the walkie-talkie in our car crackled to life with her suggestion that we stop for a look around. It’s quite a place actually, and apparently an important one from an historical point of view. Check out http://www.norfarchtrust.org.uk/binham/index.htm for more info.

After getting home Frank and me nipped into Sheringham’s excellent ‘Labone’ Indian Restaurant, ordering enough food to sustain the local football team, which naturally we all made short work of over the course of the evening. http://www.gourmetsociety.co.uk/restaurants/labone_indian_cuisine_sheringham.html

The one day we had really prayed for dry weather, whatever else it did for the rest of the week, was Wednesday. We had a twelve-seater day boat booked for a day’s exploration of a bit of the Norfolk Broads. It really needed to be dry to make the most of our vessel and our time in it. Naturally then it was absolutely pissing it down when we woke up on Wednesday morning.

HMS Picnic

We got ourselves up, organised and out very early and by quarter to nine were standing on the quay of Phoenix Fleet at Potter Heigham on the River Bure, strapping life jackets to the kids and loading the inevitable picnic onto the boat. A few brief instructions from the owners and we were off, albeit with the covers on, heading for Horning. Two minutes into the trip and I broke out my great surprise – Pirate hats!! Not very original I know but bloody funny none the less.

We were soon cruising at a pulse raising four miles per hour, dodging and weaving between much larger vessels. All of us took turns at the helm and some even made the most of the gentle cruising time by stretching out in the first class lounge. By eleven o’clock the sun was out, the covers came off and we were thinking about our first stop and a coffee. We ‘heaved to’ or ‘dropped anchor’ or whatever the term is, at Ranworth Broad Nature Reserve and an inspired stopping point it turned out to be. www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk/naturereserves It’s a beautiful spot with a charming thatch-roofed shop / observation area. It also sold coffee – out of a machine but surprisingly good. A few minutes of bird watching followed by a much needed comfort break and we were off again. No loos on our boat!!

The nature reserve

Steerage passengers enjoy a rare top deck visit whilst others relax in first class

After an extremely relaxing hour or so’s bob along the river we arrived at Horning. www.tournorfolk.co.uk/horning.html The approach to the town is lined with some fabulous houses whose gardens run down to the water’s edge and invariably sport a boathouse of some description. We managed to moor up right outside Horning’s lovely Swan Inn. www.vintageinn.co.uk/theswaninnhorning Apart from the very persistent wasps, it’s a great stop. The pub is very friendly, well stocked with excellent beers and lagers and serves what looked to us like very good food. We didn’t eat there as we’d brought our own picnic along – you’d have been disappointed otherwise wouldn’t you? – but we bought some drinks back to the boat and tucked into them and the mass of pork pies, sandwiches, crisps and much more that we’d packed up that morning. When there was nothing left to eat we took a very leisurely walk around the village. We’d been there before on our last visit to the area and had enjoyed it so much we were delighted when we realised we could reach again this trip by boat.

Ana took the helm for most of the return trip whilst the rest of us just chilled out and took in the sights. We did make one stop though at the very unusual and significant St Benet’s Abbey. Significant because founded in the eleventh century, it was at its height one of the wealthiest Benedictine houses in Britain. Its decline however pre-dated the reformation and it fell into ruins. The unusual bit is because in the eighteenth century some enterprising cove no doubt hoping to save a few groats on bricks thought it would be a good idea to use some of the ruins to form part of the walls of his new windmill. So now what’s left of what was the Abbey’s gatehouse also has an en-suite windmill. Sadly in 1863 its top blew off in a hefty gale but the remains are still very much worth a look. It even is supposed to have a ghost – a low-life monk who “can be seen hanging from the bell tower” every 25^th May. We got back to Potter Heigham delighted with our day.

That very odd windmill / Abbey thing

Another of the many windmills

Enjoying the ride back to Potter Heigham

Thursday arrived in brilliant sunshine and today’s plan was to wear the kids out completely with a trip to Hunstanton www.hunstanton-on-line.co.uk Once again a typical seaside town; much busier than Sheringham but less gaudy than many of its UK counterparts. In fact I’d say it’s pretty spot-on really. There are the usual funfair and chip shops, but at the same time it has beautiful gardens, excellent views, some lovely old buildings and a general old-world neatness and order to it. Plus it’s got ponies! Luckily as it happens because what the girls had been looking forward to most on this trip was a ride on the ponies at Hunstanton Beach. Had they not been there….well….let’s just say it would have been pretty unpleasant. We started the day further along the coast though, playing on the totally un-commercialised end of Hunstanton beach where we also enjoyed our picnic lunch.

A post-picnic Power Nap ~ an essential aid to coping with the demands of any holiday

From there we took the very scenic cliff-top walk into the town to the commercial end and quickly spotted those ponies. The girls loved their rides, despite Carla’s mount stopping mid-way to let loose a fairly hefty seaside package.

Our next stop was the funfair, and a huge amount of fun it was too. The kids ran from one ride to the next, the noisiest and most excited kid of all though was Lynda who threw herself into all the rides with equal if not more spirit and energy of the rest of them.

Back home that evening Pablo treated us to an after-dinner performance of close-up magic. It was excellent and he held our attention totally for the half an hour that he went through his recently acquired repertoire. He was brilliant, possessing all the banter and showmanship of a seasoned performer. Whatever else he does in life – music, film, whatever – he can certainly add magic as a string to his bow.

The next day was our last full day and we’d saved a very special trip till then. We were off to see the seals off Blakeney Point. We pitched up at Morestaine Quay in the morning and climbed aboard our Bean’s Boat www.beansboattrips.co.uk and were soon putt-putting out to the open water and the seals.

The short trip out is lovely enough but the seals stretched out on the sand in the sun were lovely to watch. Hardly elegant and not particularly beautiful – bit like me really – they’re none the less captivating and have an awesome ‘ah’ factor – again, a bit like me. We all loved our time with them and hopped from one side of the boat to the other to catch a glimpse of those seals brave and inquisitive enough to swim out to say hello to us.

From the quay we then drove to Wells, another of the splendid Norfolk coastal towns, with the main aim of a spot of crab fishing. We parked up and walked to the shops by the quay to our first stop to buy the crab lines and bait. To be honest the bacon bait looked so nice I was tempted to eat it myself. Anyway, bait nibbling resisted we unfurled the lines and were soon wearing the same faces of excited optimism as the scores of other people – mainly kids – hanging over the railings. That look lasted about five minutes. Carla had a bite within thirty seconds of dangling her line but lost the side-shuffling git when she tried to haul it in. That was it. Not a sniff of a crab on any of our lines for the next hour and a half. There was only one thing for it – picnic time. The nearby playground provided an excellent venue not only for lunch but for attempting to launch the kids’ new kite. I don’t know why they buy them to be honest because their track record isn’t exactly on a par with the Wright brothers, and so after a very frustrating half an hour of tweaking, throwing, running and swearing we gave up on the kite. Lynda and I thought a walk was in order and we spent a bit of time exploring some of the lovely and quaint Wells back streets. We loved it – no surprise as we feel the same about the whole area – and have pledged a return visit for some more exploration, especially of the very appealing pubs and restaurants. We all went back to the crab lines but knew it was time to pack up when ‘casting’ his, Pablo forgot he needed to hang on to one end and threw the whole lot into the water.

Our holiday home ~ courtesy of Scotty

Friday evening was a special one as it was the eve of the Carla and Andi’s ninth birthdays and we’d planned a bit of a party for them. As soon as we got back we draped banners around the dining room and filled it with balloons, then all enjoyed one of Ana’s excellent signature rice dishes as we partied and the girls blew out their birthday candles. The night was rounded off with a special ‘Birthday in Sheringham’ game of Question Chair, which as always had us falling about laughing before falling wearily but contentedly into bed.

Happy Birthday girls

How long before they're too big ~ or I'm too feeble ~ to play Question Chair?

Saturday morning was not the usual departure day mad scramble. We were organised and each of us had fallen un-bidden into a useful role in the house’s evacuation. By noon we were packed, the house cleaned top to bottom, the cars loaded and pulling away from our lovely holiday home.

Approaching our real home some time later, nine stomachs rumbled as one and the walkie-talkies were soon in use to plan lunch. We settled on an all you can eat Chinese buffet, which was superb and really hit the spot, especially for the birthday girls. It was a perfect end to a perfect trip.

We all agreed it had been a brilliant holiday and that we’d been really surprised that even by taking things at an easy, leisurely pace we’d still done and seen so much. Undoubtedly North Norfolk is a brilliant place. There’s so much to enjoy and we only scratched the surface. But it was a lovely scratch and can’t wait to do it again. As always there are people to thank; Scotty, Em and Alex for the house. Thanks so much, it’s a lovely house and absolutely perfect for us. Your generosity is so much appreciated. Mum, Frank, Ana and the kids – you gave us so many laughs (and excellent meals) and your warmth and generosity again are as always much appreciated. Lynda – it’s nothing without you.